SELINSGROVE - Steve Leason and Heather McNabb learned the art of brewing at the iconic New Belgium Brewery in Fort Collins, Colo., during the craft beer boom of the early 1990s. They decided to open their own brew pub shortly thereafter and moved to Selinsgrove.
The concept of a brew pub was new to the area; lots of people didn't get it. The borough council had misgivings. Some citizens were skeptical. A nearby church could have blocked the pub altogether. Even the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms was befuddled. Their agent had previously only inspected businesses that manufactured explosives.
But others knew exactly what Steve and Heather were up to; they were excited. It also didn't hurt that the couple lived in Selinsgrove for a year before opening, allowing them to bond with their new neighbors - especially during the flood of 1996 - and thus allay the community's fears.
They chose the historic Governor Snyder Mansion as their brew pub's home. The mansion - owned by Heather's parents - was built in the early 1800s and was the home of Gov. Simon Snyder, Pennsylvania's only three-term governor. In late 1996, Selinsgrove Brewing opened on the ground floor, which used to house the governor's kitchen.
Steve and Heather had definite ideas about what they wanted their brew pub to be - a place where one could savor high-quality handcrafted beer and a place where the community could gather and support the art of conversation. To that effect, they were adamant about no smoking or televisions.
That vision still exists today. The rustic, yet cozy, brew pub is reminiscent of a 19th century tavern, where a loyal clientele goes to forget about the outside world and relax over a pint or two. It's a regular destination on lists of "Best Places to Have a Beer Before You Die." Karol and I visit as often as we can. One of the things we love most about it is that once there, we never know whom we're likely to meet. It's the place Cheers wishes it could be.
Steve and Heather personally brew every batch. Their brewery has expanded twice, from a self-built "Franken-brewery" rig to a much larger 8.5-barrel (264-gallon) system, which is located in a nearby garage. The expansion made brewing fun again, plus Heather also believed the moisture generated from the original system in the basement couldn't have been good for a house built in 1816.
Even though their capacity has expanded, everything is still brewed with the same care as their first batch of Scottish Ale. They believe being a small, on-premise-only operation puts them in a unique position to experiment and get personal feedback from their customers. Selin's Grove Brewing is small by choice, comfortable in its own skin. There are no plans to expand seating or package brew.
But the brew pub isn't only about beer. Their food is exquisite, emphasizing freshness and locally produced breads, cheeses and desserts. The lineup of sandwiches and wraps is varied and delicious. A weekly special rotates between regular and vegetarian fare, which is one of their specialties. Even a confirmed carnivore like me must admit the nachos with vegetarian chili are outstanding.
Selin's Grove Brewing is open Wednesday through Sunday. Checking Facebook or calling is the best way to find out what's on tap. Enjoy the selections and remember, you'll never know whom you're going to meet there. Cheers!
Scottish Ale: Scottish Ales are about subtlety, a low-alcohol style that's meant to be slowly enjoyed by the pint. It pours clear amber with a medium head. Aromas of bready malt segue to flavors of caramel and biscuit. The hop presence is minimal, and the finish is clean, with a touch of sweetness. This is one of their flagship brews and is almost always on tap.
Solstice Dubbel: Dubbel goes on tap in late December to commemorate the brew pub's anniversary and to celebrate the winter solstice. This style is one of my favorites. It has a little bit of everything Belgian brews are famous for. It pours tawny brown with red highlights reflecting in the goblet. Aromas of bready malt mingle with spicy yeast. The body is medium, while the flavors are a complex array of rich malt, toffee, and fruit - apple and pear - rather than the dark fruit flavors traditionally found in a Dubbel. There's a hint of spiciness. (I'm not sure if it's from the yeast or a secret spice additive.) The finish is wonderfully dry. This beer is an excellent accompaniment for dessert.
Priestley Pale Ale: In a world dominated by American pale ales, English Pale Ale is a rarity. This beer honors Joseph Priestley, a scientist and free-thinker who left England to escape persecution and settled in nearby Northumberland. The style is sublime on the hand-pulled beer engine, so always check to see if this option is available. Priestley's hand-pulled pour has a huge head. Its aromas are a tantalizing blend of malt and floral East Kent Goldings hops. The silky hand-pulled carbonation caresses the tongue with flavors of malt and biscuit, harmoniously balancing the spiciness of the hops. One sip of Priestley, and you'll swear you've been transported to a rural English pub.
Snake Drive Stout: Snake Drive pours dark, almost pitch black, with light carbonation. The flavor is dominated by roasted barley. The huge hop presence isn't exactly to style, but it works nicely. The finish is dry, as an Irish stout should be. It was also the perfect complement for corned beef and cabbage on our last visit.
Dinkel Wit: Dinkel is Pennsylvania Dutch for spelt, a close relative of wheat. The spelt was micro-malted in Milroy for a local touch. The beer is straw-colored and cloudy. Aromas of bready malt mix with those of citrus and spicy yeast. The mouthfeel is creamy, with flavors of wheat and spices: bitter and sweet orange peel, coriander, and lemongrass, plus an undivulged secret spice. Overall, it's a nice interpretation of the Belgian style.
(The Brew Dude is published every other week on the Food and Drink Page. For comments, suggestions, or questions, email Mark Pasquinelli at thebrewdude@newsitem.com.)